Good morning Vietnam - March 23 2009
The trip up the Saigon river was unreal, I got up at 05.00am to make sure I didn’t miss anything. The river was flat calm as the ship moved along at 10 or 12 knots between jungle covered banks with trees right down to the edge, there was a faint smell of smoke, someone’s early morning cooking fire, I love the smell of smoke in the morning. Initially I saw no sign of life but after a while a small fishing boat or two appeared as we rounded one bend after another and after a while, as the sun rose, I could hear the birds begin to stir and an occasional long necked white bird appeared at the water’s edge. Soon more signs of civilisation as the tall jungle trees gave way to banana plantations and buildings slowly began to emerge from the forest and I could hear the distinctive sound of local music in the distance.
The welcoming commitee in Vietnam
By 07.30am, we were passing through a much more industrial area, the previous day my airport transfer provider had confirmed that he would be waiting at Lotus Port, so when the captain announced that due to uncontrollable circumstances, our docking port had changed, I was a little concerned that we might not be able to meet our tight schedule. We had been told there were very few taxis available at the ports so it was with a fair amount of relief that when we actually docked, panic over, we were at the originally announced Lotus Port. Along the dockside, 15 or 20 Vietnamese ladies were lined up in traditional dress and as the ship tied up, they each released a bunch of helium filled balloons creating a colourful welcoming display.
We left the ship about 08.45 and walked the 10 minutes to the dock gate, it was overpoweringly hot as we dragged our bags through the dust and we were happy to see our transfer arrive, thank goodness for air conditioning. The trip through Ho Chi Minh City, on our way to the airport, was pandemonium, we were in the middle of morning rush hour with roads packed with buses, trucks and cars and thousands of motorbikes going in all directions, the only road rules seemed to be, don’t give way to anyone and move into any available space on either side of the road.
Izzy boarding the Vietnam Airlines plane
We reached Tan Son Nhat Airport around 10.30am, in good time for our 12.25pm flight, outside the airport was mobbed but inside it was blissfully quiet as only travellers are allowed in, an idea that could be adopted in North America. We found the Vietnam Airlines counter and checked in without problem then made our way through security to the immigration counters. “immigration form?” said the guy behind the counter, “What immigration form?” said we, he motioned back the way we had come, so off we traipsed back through the concourse to the airline counters, found the forms, filled them in and retraced our steps back to immigration, this time passing through successfully and on to gate 12 our departure point. Around noon a bus arrived and carried us out to our aircraft, a mid size turbo prop, flight number VA807, we climbed the rear stairs and settled into our front row seats for the 60 minute flight to Siem Reap. No sooner had the doors closed than the pilot put his boot to the floor and we took off across the apron toward our allotted runway. I’ve never travelled so fast in an aeroplane while still on the ground, we must have been doing about 60mph within seconds and he didn’t slow down much to make a u-turn at the end of the runway before racing into the sky. The seatbelt lights went out and the stewardess distributed entry and exit forms, immediately followed by a box lunch which we had barely finished as the plane started to descend for landing, almost exactly one hour flying time. Entering the Cambodian immigration hall, we saw several hundred people in crowded lines, all filling in visa application forms. A voice called out “If you have an Evisa, go to counters 2 through 8” About 10 or 12 of us peeled out and went to the assigned counters. It pays to have your visa in advance (apply and pay on line) we were through the whole process in a matter of minutes.
Colourful Cambodia
The lobby of the Prince D'Angkor hotel
Chanseyha, our guide was waiting and we were efficiently transported to our hotel, the Prince D’Angkor, in about 15 minutes. The “Prince” was a beautiful exotic place, all wood and stone in typical Cambodian style, I loved it. We were welcomed and ushered to two large easy chairs where we enjoyed a cool towel and a cold drink while the registration process was completed. We were happy to hear that breakfast was included in our rate and as part of a current promotion dinner would also be included at their best restaurant. Our room was spectacular, with balcony overlooking the pool and it was tempting to just relax and perhaps take a dip in the pool, but I had arranged for Chanseyha to pick us up at 04.00pm for a visit to a craft manufacturing school and the old market.
The street outside the old market in Siem reap
We were back at the hotel around 06.00pm in plenty of time for our 07.30pm dinner reservation. The food was excellent, a typical Khmer dinner, I stuffed myself ‘til I felt sick, then just as I thought it was over, they brought us a large plate of fruit each, I felt compelled to eat it to avoid offending our hosts. Back in the hotel room, we caught the last ten minutes of the Amazing Race and before I knew it I fell into a deep sleep, brought on by the days activities and the ample supply of beer enjoyed during our dinner.
Angkor`s Away - March 24 2009
Our day began a 08.00am when SiHa (Chanseyha) picked us up at our hotel, we rode in an air conditioned Toyota Camry, SiHa provided a running commentary as we headed to our first stop, the Apsara Authority ticket gates, to buy our $20 day pass to the Angkor Archaeological Park and Temples. They photograph you and print your picture on the ticket which is inspected at most of the sites.
Elephant at Bayon temple
Me at the South gate of Angkor Thom
Next stop was the South gate of the Angkor Thom complex, a magnificent edifice seen in many pictures but even more stunning in real life. SiHa dropped us one side allowing us to walk through the gate then picked us up on the other side. There appeared to be an unwritten rule, regarding the vendors, which applied at most of the sights, there was frequently a fine rope pinned to the ground about 10 feet either side of the road which the vendors never crossed, once you stepped over it, you became fair game and were subject to the vendors attention. I loved the excitement and bargaining and found the vendors as much a part of the experience as the temples. Shortly after leaving the South gate, we approached the Bayon temple and its’ magnificent distinctive ‘face towers’. Near the entrance, several elephants were stationed, offering a circuit of the temple, I knew this was one of Izzy’s all time dreams to ride an elephant, so we went straight over and bought tickets. We clambered onto his back and took off around the rectangular compound, the elephant knew the way, stopping occasionally to allow us to take a picture, it was a great way to get an overview of the temple.
Me at Angkor Thom temple
Not the Mona Lisa
Once back on firm ground, we entered the temple with SiHa guiding, Izzy found the climbing too strenuous so we left her in a shady spot and I took off with SiHa for an exploration of the higher parts. Needless to say , when we returned, Izzy was nowhere to be seen, Siha retraced our steps searching for her and I went off toward the next corner to see if she had walked further up. Finding nothing, I returned and saw Siha in the distance, by some market stalls waving me over, she was sitting outside a small store, talking to some kids.
Izzy with kids at Angkor Thom market
We had a much needed drink of water, then Siha and I went over to investigate the Baphuon temple and its magnificent elephant carved terrace wall while Izzy remained behind in the shade, talking to the kids. I climbed to the top of the highest tower, almost killing myself, it was stifling and I rested for 10 minutes at the top, to recover, before heading back to Izzy and the air conditioned car.
The overgrown temple of Ta Prohm
We exited the Angkor Thom complex by the Victory gate and headed toward our next stop, Ta Prohm, a popular unrestored temple overgrown by jungle. Once again the scene was amazing, the trees had long ago invaded and become part of the temple buildings, it was incredible, every turn revealed a new and marvellous sight.
The intense heat and humidity were taking their toll on us so we decided to take a break back at the hotel for a shower and rest, but before that Siha took us to a local retaurant for lunch and a beer.
Izzy at lunch
The food was excellent and inexpensive, accompanied by some local beer, it was the perfect answer to our needs, after lunch SiHa dropped us back at the hotel about 01.00pm, promising to return at 03.00pm for our visit to the big attraction Angkor Wat.
The great temple of Angkor Wat
After a shower, a nap and a change of clothes, we were once again on the road and soon were in the parking lot opposite the great temple. As soon as we stepped out of the car, we were surrounded by kids, selling all kinds of souvenirs, mostly postcards. One little girl was the most persistent, one dollar for 10 postcards, but I held out and soon she gave up but not before asking my name. I told her and she said her name was Mary and would I buy from her when we came back out. I reluctantly agreed and we started down the long causeway toward the temple. Angkor Wat was the largest of the temple complexes we’d seen, the entrance way was pockmarked with bullet holes from the 1980’s war with the Khmer Rouge, some still with bullets lodged therein. We spent the next few hours exploring and met some of the group from the ship, also touring the complex, it was every bit as incredible as the other temples and I thoroughly enjoyed the whole experience. SiHa dropped us back at the hotel for a break, he had reserved us a table at a local restaurant featuring a stage presentation of Cambodian culture. We enjoyed an excellent meal and around 09.00pm, SiHa was waiting outside to take us to a local nightmarket for shopping, before dropping us back at the hotel around 10.00pm. I should say, Siha was an excellent guide and we were very happy with his services, he was reliable and was always willing to do what was required to meet our needs.
Thai Fly - March 25 2009
The next day was hot and humid again, we were scheduled to fly out at 01.25pm, Bangkok Air flight PG906, I asked SiHa to pick us up at the hotel at 11.30am. We had an easy morning and a slow breakfast, then we completed our packing, checked the internet, had a brief walk and after checking out of the hotel, Siha drove us to the airport. We were lucky to get the exit row on the plane, so we had plenty of leg space and as soon as we were airborne, we were served a box lunch and a free beer. The flight took only 45 minutes, when we cleared customs, our driver was waiting for us and after a 40 minute drive we arrived at our hotel Montien Riverside. The hotel was impressive, once again we were registered in comfort, with a cool drink, our room on the 18th floor gave a spectacular view of the Chao Phraya river. We took a walk around the hotel gardens and explored the possibilities for dinner, the Café seemed like the best bet so by 07.00pm we were enjoying a pleasant meal overlooking the river, I had an excellent lasagna (even better than the lasagna I had in Beijing), Izzy had a club sandwich and by 10.00pm we retired for the evening.
Bangkok Not Dangerous - March 26 2009
The lobby of the Montien Riverside
Our first full day in Bangkok, we were up early, had breakfast and around 09.00am, Chop, our guide called to let us know he was in the lobby. He was on his cell phone when we got down to the lobby (a condition that would be repeated several times during the day) and we waited 5 minutes for him to finish before setting off on our tour. He was obviously a very competent guide and quickly set us at ease teaching us some Thai words and the significance of the hands together as though in prayer.
Me and Izzy at the Royal Palace, Bangkok
Me and Izzy at the Royal Palace, different building
Our first stop was the Royal Palace, a stunning set of buildings that dazzled the eyes. As we progressed through the complex, Chop explained the history and culture of the palace at breakneck speed, we covered all the major areas ending with a visit to the Royal Monastery of the Emerald Buddha.
Making a donation
The giant reclining Buddha
We left our shoes in the racks provided and entered the hall housing the fabled statue, taking a seat on the floor while Chop told us about the Buddha. The Buddha, about 3 feet high is not emerald, but is in fact carved from a single piece of green jade, it was first discovered in 1434. I had mentioned to Chop that we’d like to try a Tuktuk ride, so when we exited the palace grounds we were met by our Tuktuk for the ten minute trip to Wat Po and the massive gold covered reclining Buddha, the journey was an experience, as the Tuktuk used any available space to advance through the traffic. ‘Wat’ means ‘temple’ and ‘Po’ is the name of a type of tree that originally stood on the site, The reclining Buddha was a site to see, massive and awe inspiring, we made a donation in exchange for 108 one satang coins, one to be deposited in each of 108 bronze urns lined along the side of the great statue, corresponding to the 108 auspicious characteristics of the Buddha, for good fortune, and to help the monks keep up the wat. We left Wat Po and since it was around 12.30pm we made our way to Supatra River House, a Thai restaurant situated on the banks of the river where we enjoyed a typical Thai meal ordered by Chop, it was excellent, except for the extremely hot peppers.
The longtail boat heads up river
On the longtail boat, Chao Phraya river
After lunch we walked over to the riverbank to board our long tail boat for a trip up river and around one of the main canals. It was a fascinating experience, I can see why Bangkok is called ‘the Venice of the East’, we stopped to buy a small bag from a pleasant old lady floating on the river in a small boat, it was interesting to see how people lived on the river and how they received the normalities of life, like garbage collection and water supply etc.
Old lady on the river
We pulled into a different small dock and climbed out of the long tail, we were at the spice market and spent some time walking through looking at the different spices, then we moved on to the flower market where Izzy bought some flowers to take back to the ship. At the edge of the market, we were met by our transportation again to face the rush hour traffic heading back to the hotel and our daytime Bangkok tour was over. Chop was a very knowledgeable guide, but did not live up to his promises for the tour, we mentioned that we had not visited Wat Arun and he responded that we used the time visiting the flower market, yet our tour finished about 03.30pm, while the original schedule called for our tour to run ‘til 05.00pm, I got the impression he had other business to attend to.
One Night in Bangkok
Enjoying a beer at the night market, Bangkok
We decided that we would spend the evening visiting the well known night market at Suan Luam, so around 06.00pm, we called a taxi and made our way to the market, the meter said 109 Baht, we gave the driver 120 Baht (more about this later).
Izzy with new friend at the night market
When we got there it was just turning dark and we had a walk through the edge of the market before finding a suitable bar to sit and enjoy a few beers before getting down to the serious business of shopping. The area was festooned with colourful lights and was very pretty and it was a beautiful warm night, we watched the world go by for a while then started into the market. The people were very friendly and Izzy loved seeing the kids and talking to the vendors, we saw the cutest little dog (though not as cute as Spammy) and the cutest little kid and after buying the usual pile of junk we walked over to the closest taxi rank. ‘Montien riverside’ we said, ‘300 Baht’ the driver said and the negotiations began, ending in an agreed price of 120 Baht. No sooner had we gone 100 yards when the driver upped his price to 150 Baht, ‘No way’ we said, the cab stopped, we swung the doors open, jumped out and walked back to the taxi rank. This time, we agreed to 130 Baht, we started off and the price went up to 140 Baht, we agreed to 130 Baht fare and 10 Baht tip and soon we were back at the hotel, where we gave the driver 150 Baht as he had been quite talkative on the journey and seemed to be a pleasant enough guy. Back in the hotel, Izzy had a bath and I ordered room service which was delivered on its‘ own table complete with a rose in a vase, we had a late dinner by the window, high above the city of angels.
Bye Bye Bangkok - March 27 2009
After breakfast, we decided to take the hotel shuttle to a local shopping mall, so we sat outside the hotel about 09.15am. It was a beautiful morning and the entrance to the Montien was busy as usual with tour buses and taxis coming and going. As I breathed in the exhaust fumes, I thought ‘this is Bangkok’ exciting, busy but polluted, I loved it. We boarded the shuttle when it appeared and half an hour later we arrived at the downtown Montien hotel, no-one told the driver we wanted dropped at Central Plaza. We waited around the hotel for the next shuttle, the Montien downtown wasn’t anything as nice as our hotel and there was a distinctive ‘river’ smell about the place, so we were happy with our hotel choice. We arrive at Central Plaza around 11.00am, did a bit of shopping, shuttled back to the hotel at noon, checked out and waited for our transfer to the ship, about 100km South in Laem Chabang. The trip down took about 1 hour 45 minutes, all fast highway driving, we’d called the ships agent in Bangkok in the morning to confirm the ships location but I still wasn’t 100% convinced that the ship would be there so it was a relief to actually see it. It’s been very difficult to get firm answers from the ship as to where they will be docked, no-one seems to know where they’ll be, ‘til they are actually docked. We got back on board, had something to eat then went back ashore for a quick look around, in some ways we were sad to be back, we had such a great time in Cambodia and Thailand, loved them both, Cambodia most of all, the only disappointment was that we hadn’t seen much of Vietnam, but we’ve vowed to come back and spend a longer period of time. In the evening, we weren’t hungry so we went up on deck for the sail away, met some friends and sat drinking and talking ‘til late, missed the sail away completely.
Sunset over a calm sea
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